For sale in good condition: MERIDA SLICK ROCK 7300SX, size 17” (MEDIUM), Mountain Bike.
This is a ~1990-95 High-Mid range ($7-800 today) mountain bike from MERIDA.
MERIDA is a German brand featuring mostly high end bikes:
https://www.merida-bikes.com/en/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merida_Bikes
You can see by yourself in the pictures what the level of the components are.
On this particular bike all the components are in very good condition, for this bike has apparently seldom been used: there are no traces of wear or abuse.
However, it has been neglected and probably left to the elements for a few years: some parts are cosmetically so-so.
Because the original fork did not look safe (play in the steerer), the fork as been replaced by a BRAND New SR Suntour XCE28, a $100 value, similar to this model: https://a.co/d/6OMlT7B
There is also a suspension seat post that works!
This bike is mechanically like new, oiled, greased and tuned by a bike mechanics amateur.
All bearings have been checked and greased as needed: bottom bracket, both wheels, cassette, jockey wheels, headset, pedals: that’s 16 bearings!
All brake and shifter cables have been checked and oiled, changed if necessary.
Shifting is perfect: 3x7 speeds, braking is perfect, brake pads are new.
Tires are decent, I could install different tires if you wish, including slick tires if you are only going to ride on the road.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with this bike, it works perfectly and is ready for another 20+ years of service with proper maintenance.
This bike can be an excellent first time mountain bike, or go-to-school ride, or a campus bike..
There was at least 6 hours of work put into this bike to make it functionally like new again, equivalent to a bike shop ‘overhaul’ that costs $250+..
ALSO: If you buy this bike from me, I’ll help you set it up for you and provide tuning on saddle and stem position, tires, brakes and shifters for a week after sale (things often go a bit out of whack after first use).
Test ride: I would ride with you around the neighborhood and go over any questions/issues and adjustments.
For an extra cost (parts), I can install different tires, brake pads, your choice of saddle and other accessories like lights, etc…
Original MSRP: $800+
To pick up in south Sunnyvale.
See all the bikes i am selling and have sold, along with good buyer reviews, on my Facebook MarketPlace profile:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/profile/100013433087422/?ref=permalink&mibextid=6ojiHh
HOW TO BUY A USED BIKE:
After you have decided that you like the look and style of the bike and might buy it, thoroughly test ride it, and buy from someone who knows what they are selling, and will advise and help you set up the bike to your anatomy, unless you know how to do that.
Test all gears, push hard on the pedals and handlebars. Get some speed and brake hard. Braking should be powerful, quiet, and with no shaking.
Brake levers should feel fluid, sharp and snappy.
Gears should move up with low resistance and back down with no delay or hesitation: gunked cables and shifters will only get worse.
Make sure there is no play in the headset, wheels, cranks, anything that has bearings.
Lean the bike and push hard sideways on the crank, as to bend the bike: no cracking sound should be heard.
Push the pedals hard backward and make sure they spin around at least twice. Three times or more is better. Do that in low gear as well as high gear.
Make sure the wheels spin freely (10-20 turns..) and that they are true.
Check spoke presence and tension.
Suspensions should be smooth and not leak oil. On cheap entry level bikes, suspensions are always bad, but don’t worry about it, they are rather useless anyway, just make sure they don’t collapse when you ride the bike.
Don’t worry about the pedals: they are often ‘crunchy’ but they are cheap and often you’ll get a new pair you like, however you should make sure that the old ones can be removed (they could be ‘seized’ on the cranks, or someone may have cross-thread them, destroying the cranks.)
Lastly, after you buy a bike from a private party, don’t trust it blindly, and have a pro do at least a safety check: this is where you might unfortunately discover some extra necessary expenses.
If you buy an expensive bike, you might want to require this check (at your expense) BEFORE you commit to the purchase. If the seller hesitates or refuses, that’s a red flag.
I believe a professional safety check can be done under $100.