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BMW e23 1984 3.8L built drive train & 2002 corvette 450whp cammed - $8000 (fremont / union city / newark)


1984 BMW 733i

cylinders: 8 cylinders
drive: rwd
fuel: gas
odometer: 158000
title status: clean
transmission: manual

Three cars for sale
(2) bmw e23 one 3.8L MetricMechamic built main machine other parts car etc. This deal is going to be better than any e23(s) short of some crazy bring a trailer unicorn.
(1) 2002 corvette manual 6MT 450whp tick performance cam stage 3 etc. Detailed below.

Can trade for presmog 1975 or prior cars. C10 67-72 2nd gen. Manual swapped v8 wagons. Can entertain offers. Can work a package deal for all 3 cars.

Read whole ad please before any serious inquiries as it covers everything possible. Want to sell both bmw E23 cars as a pair with a full getrag 5MT MANUAL parts car with the manual parts/drive train disassembled so you could swap it into any other vintage BMW rightaway! sell the unit and make a chunk of change! or swap everything into the rust free parts car.

CARS ARE IN CALIFORNIA BAY AREA. Viewing on a monitor is best, the wall of text could be daunting (especially on phone) but if you're serious you'd read and is a good filter to see serious buyers.

Original owner eventually did the entire metric mechanic 3900 hiflo build (effectively 3.8L and entire drivetrain/transmission/diff etc. over 11k$ was spent and parts are damn strong) and the dinan suspension (shocks,springs,sways, maybe more?) package early 2000s. Documents printed, Jim from Metric Mechanic, and my current go to BMW shop BrykoMotoring can confirm.

Car sat for a few years in Pacifica with original owner and started getting some water collection which has contributed to some rust rot at some door openings, rear lower back of trunk lid, and rear window vents (Pictures and links below). Bottom of chassis/overall/key points has minimal rust. Previous owner I bought from did revival work. Both previous owners were from Pacifica.

I eventually bought the car and have been daily driving it from then on through the Bay Area commutes/traffic about 5 days a week (at least 40 miles per day) with no problems for the past 5 years and odometer has been out prior to my purchase. Within the past single year 25 miles per day due to closer work and splitting driver miles with the vette. Roughly 7-10k miles a year. Maintenance done in time duration/yearly.

This car is easy to drive and having a single mass fly wheel revs quicker and sharper than the conventional dual mass fly wheels ALL the inline 6 BMWs of the era had. In combination with the MM transmission and lsd diff gearing is way smoother/faster than any NA m30 series i6. Easily passes smog, also has new cat from random technology (magnaflow). If interested in what goes into a Metric Mechanic m30 motor/transmission gearing/diff. etc. look on their website.

Onto the details of the E23s

MM/Dinan car: I'm guessing approximately ~330k mi salvage. Previous owner mentions the damage was extremely minor. Original owner had someone back into the headlights in a parking lot and was considered salvaged during this time period. I have pictures of Pre-euro swap over 5 years ago from when I first purchased upon request. Looked like nothing occured the car was pretty clean other than very light oxidization.
Parts car: 15xxxx odo stopped and was driven less than 10 miles after stoppage and motor ceased (fuel issue?) clean title. Has a getrag 5 speed w/ new slave/cmc etc. have documents of refreshed parts. Not running, good parts car with motor. Has new water pump. Worth over a thousand in parts. All goodies actually removed and stored. Good transmission etc.

I will list the cons first which should save us all time. You can then expect everything else to be in full working order and be PROs.

Cons: Minimal, most of them are not of much priority and personally have not affected my daily driving/practical usage.
- Rust: behind rear window vent sills, slight gash on driver fender, underpart of trunk lid, and behind some doors. Most of if not all key points of car bottom/chassis etc. has no rust. It takes an actual
long time for it to become a problem so do not be alarmed. Been driving it with the same amount of rust for the past 5 years with no perceptual change. (Pictures)
- No AC but I believe unit is on the car.
- Cluster: Following does not work on cluster itself * Odometer: Stuck at 277k since prior to purchase, does not affect my driving/maintenance schedule at all. This is a drivers car. Probably at 330k now. 8-12k miles a year.
* Temp gauge: Relocated with VDO gauge and is working
* Fuel gauge not accurate: OBC is very accurate. I use the range approximate mile values to gas up or gas up weekly/bi weekly.
- Rear left window does not work but can be manually rolled. Happened recently. (I definitely love the fact all windows and roof can be manually rolled if desired).
- Sunroof motor does not work but can be manually rolled. I personally never used it
- Paint beginning to fade on roof and trunk. Trunk is easy to respray or swap and respray the parts car trunk.
- Burns a little bit of oil at the high rpm/wot and needs to run on 91 octane due to build plus having higher compression. I keep the oil topped off.
- Passenger side front and rear door handles broken/missing. Car can still be entered/opened from outside and also central locking system
- Driver door lock cylinder is broken. Car can still lock via fixed/new central locking module.

Pros & all else in working order:
Recent maintenance done. I do what I can but mostly will take to Bryko Motoring in Hayward for work done and they have all documentations as well if needed.
- New driver side window guide I put this in few months ago. Had to wait from Germany.
- Crank position sensor - did few years ago was causing a no start once in a blue moon.
- Skid plate within past few years due to oil pan being the lowest point of the car, I cracked the old one on something on the road.
- All 4 fenders rolled flat and body lines not disturbed no cracks.
Bryko Motoring did the following within late summer of 2019.
- All new fluids brakes,diff,trans,clutch,coolant. Redline fluids were used except for BMW oem coolant and kendall 20/50 oil for zinc (good for these motors of this vintage). Another oil change was done 10/30/19 with Supertech 20w/50(recommended by a veteren on I have always used 20w/50 as it is said to provide the proper protection for these older m30 motors.
- New oil pan with gasket
- Differential serviced/resealed
- Front new meyle control arms (4)
- Valve adjustment
- Dinan suspension package bilstein shocks/dinan springs/dinan swaybars
- 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust all the way back to borla muffler and single walled dual tips. I had this done within a week of buying the car.
- 3.8L 3900 hiflo metric mechanic motor. This motor package done by the original owner includes bored out stock headers/intake manifold etc. M5 crank shaft, specified super water pump by Jim from Metric Mechanic etc.
- Can pass smog normally with
a cat.
- " Transmission Metric Mechanic Ultimate " very strong rebuilt unit with good gear ratios for quicker acceleration and still providing good economy.
- Metric Mechanic 3.42 LSD
- 3" accordian/ribbed intake tube with universal drop in filter. This car has always passed visual/smog legally. Could go for a smoother pipe for power gain I imagine.
- 20mm/25mm front and rear spacers on 2 piece bbs rc090 style 5 wheels has some curb on all 4 not bad. 235/45/17 michelin super sport all season tires are practically brand new and have tons of tread.
- Fenders rolled all around, no paint crack/chip.
** Metric Mechanic drive train package exceeds 10000$ and has OEM reliability. Most recent long trip was from east bay to Monterey for rolex vintage show. Other than that driven daily as mentioned above.

Interior: Black/Black and excellent condition mostly. 8/10, dash cover has always been on but is claimed by previous owner to not have any dash cracks. It does look good, does not creak, and I cannot confirm if no dash cracks is true.
- Rare COARSE SPLINE M-tech steering wheel. These wheels go for over 300-500$ on ebay. The fine spline are significantly cheaper but will not fit the e23 unless you change out the steering shaft to a newer model. Also have original big bus wheel. I do have a clean condition fine spline for sale for 250$ (from a prior later model e24).
- E28 M5 seats fully function except knee bolters. The E23 does not have wiring for knee bolsters but can be done, I left them alone up to new owner to do it if they want. Can go over 1500$ a pair.
- Condor speedshop tall shift knob
- Air controls work with progression/gradual movement but no ac.
** I have TWO pairs of E23 OEM seats. Electric left and right and also manual left and right.
- Subs under the rear seats and amp in the trunk. Will need new sub gauge wire from battery.
- Recently fixed central locking module.
Quirks: I do not rough house anything in the car and I do slow deliberate actions to activate anything to maintain good vehicular health. Rolling down multiple windows at a time can cause the window fuse to blow, I suggest one at a time.
Exterior: 6.5/10. Has some rust rot behind some doors/rear ventilation, trunk lid bottom. Paint beginning to fade top and trunk. As previously mentioned and pictured. Swirl marks seen has been said by another 80s BMW owner can be wet sanded off. It's old clear coat issue.
All rare pieces or super limited production
- Euro shark nose (pre facelift) front end with staggered headlights. (Full front end conversions on ebay exceed 1800$)
- Euro front bumper
- Euro rear bumper (euro bumpers as a pair easily go over 1000$ on ebay)
- "Motorsport" (I do not think they exist any longer) sideskirts and rear valence apron.
** I might have the rare front bumper rubber strips and rear strips in excellent condition at my cousins house.
** I may have another set of rare front and rear euro bumpers. Will sell separate or keep as I may pick up another e23 in the future when life/time frees up.

I want to sell with parts car as a pair. Will not part out anything. If new owner really wants to part every single piece they'd come out with thousands of extra money on top.

Daily driven over 5 years and has been good all these years with no issues that cause it to become incapacitated.

Some cautionary points for BMWs of this vintage and this car in particular
*These BMW of this vintage were not designed to idle/stationary long periods of time or stop in go modern traffic for too long or it CAN lead to cooling system blowout/blown head gaskets. (Read up on this, it is true and should
be cautioned.) I have however, been in stop and go traffic on a regular basis but if I see temperature pass up 200-220 I put the heaters on. (Cars normally are around 200-220 but I put it on just to prevent
it from going any further even though I have not seen it exceed 200-220 and can be attested by bryko motoring during coolant changes.)
*There are 3 belts and each are sized different than OEM due to metric mechanic using a m5 aftermarket water pump during the build. The belts are not a problem to size up or any competent shop can work with it very easily.
*Pressing multiple windows down/up at same time could cause the window related fuse to blow. Going up/down each individually does not seem to ever have this problem. As mentioned at some point above, suggesting one window at a time.
*Jim from Metric Mechanic is still very well and can answer any questions pertaining to the 3900 hiflo build if needed. Give him a call if anything, just google Metric Mechanic BMW.

Parts car info: Most of the the drive train disassembled, and also being super rare that it is ALSO a manual getrag 5 speed car.
The manual assembly with 3 pedal box alone sells for over 800$. All windows were known to have worked last including sunroof. Pretty much complete car with rear battery relocation. M30 motor does not run, might have been fuel pump or something not too severe as I also drove this fine until it happened.
Odometer in this car also doesn't work but everything else on cluster worked before.
Has a leak during rain that pools in the rear left floor board but no signs of rust rot, minor surface rust at occasional locations and I constantly dry/drain it to prevent it.

8000 / 8k obo including parts car. You will be hard pressed to find any E23 built/outfitted to this degree and can be daily driven reliably.

The following wheels below can be added in addition to their prices.

Two sets of BBS RZ 469 16x8 +23
- Set1: NO curb rash pretty mint on brand new indy 500 firestone 225/50/16 tires. 600$
- Set2: Minor curb on dunlop direzza 225/50/16 maybe can get a few thousand miles off of them but they're getting to be bald but no where near cables yet. 350$
Set3:18x8.5 5x120 +38 1200 obo (honestly not sure on pricing, I've seen them all around. Show some comparable set and price I can work with you.)
Racing Dynamic RGS with VERY old tires (I would not suggest riding on these so I will not list tire details.)

Let me know if any serious questions/inquiries.

Email first, only if serious can go towards phone or text

**CORVETTE C5 MAGNETIC RED 2002 450whp tick performance stage 3 cam**
Clean title
~159k miles

I do not have a hold of my previous smog tech. This was bought as a weekend car but I end up driving it 2-3 days of the week sometimes both to work and on weekends. A few LS7 lifters decided to fail and I've got the head completely rebuilt with new GM Performance 8k+ rpm lifters less than 2k miles ago. Machine work took off .003 as it was good and only needed cleaning. Overall I reckon this car can get to the next decades troublefree other than regular maintenance intervals.

Previous owner did everything except the c5 mufflers with bypass, rebuilt heads w/ new lifters, and hyperflash harness

Starting with maintenance and reliability mods:
water pump
oil pump etc.
- Huge list, will have a picture below. Take a look at attached.

Pros/Mods: I have not dyno'd it but previous owner has said 450whp and 400wtq.

(full parts listed on spread sheet pictured below)
-arp headbolts
- tuned on hptuners
-Tick performance stage3 sns cam
-Fast92 intake manifold
-Ls7 throttle body
-Xs power headers to X pipe to 3” pipes factory necked to 2.5 before flanges into 2.5” factory c5 mufflers with muffler bypass pipe (sounds amazing without being obnoxious.) with bigger proper fitting exhaust tips. I also have both z06 titanium flanged axleback sections with no mufflers on them
- Brian Tooley valves
- roller rockers
- Volant dual filter intake
- GM Performance 8K+ rpm lifters
- Tick performance speed bleeder for clutch fluid

Ball joints/control arms
Bc coil overs
Achilles tires with tons of tread life left
Jnc bbs lm replica wheels
18x8 +35 Achilles atk 245 40 18 - I have a spare single front wheel
18x9 +35 Achilles new type 2 275 40 18
URO jacking pucks

Z06 seats
350mm steering wheel
Hyper flash harness for regular blinking/hazard patterns due to resistance differential from led bulbs
Weathertech floormats
Sub & crunch amp: Sub/box fits perfectly in trunk cavity. Sub and amp is currently not in car, I also have an Elite Performance heel toe pedal not installed. Too late for me to return the unused pedal for full refund now.

- Oil is less than 1k miles. Burns oil but very slowly, dependent on driving style. Maybe a quart every few thousand?
- Clutch fluid bled and refilled every few thousand (no reason not to do it often as it has a clutch fluid speed bleeder)
- Did a siphon of the PS fluid and replaced with royal purple. Did not flush but siphoned.
- All other fluids less than 15k

Cons: Pretty minor all of them imo.
- Some paint fade along top and trunk, tint bubbling a little on trunk (Can get a new trunk lid not a bad idea/cost effective). I clayed, buffed, polished but I assume with more aggressive polishing / cutting can bring back the paint life further.
- Targa might have an air leak
- Water can leak onto driver side sill if sat outside during rain, very minimal water. Perhaps the targa can use seal restoring/rehydration or new or readjust the way it seats. Either way fiberglass and sitting water is no problem, also after a driver evacuates over 90% of it leaving a few droplets.
- Previous owner(s) have a chipped off piece on the front left of the front lip, driver fender has a chip off can be seen in the pictures.
- Fuel gauge might not be most accurate thing out there. I fill up when my trip A reads between 150-200 miles which comes out to around 10-15gallons at 15mpg average. Common GM car fueling issue where it clicks off early if not held at the "proper angle".

15500 OBO.

At this price range why would you want anything else? Will literally blast everything out of the water.

Email first, only if serious can go towards phone or text
  • do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers

post id: 7071830610



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