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1990 Mazda Miata MX5

cylinders: 4 cylinders
drive: rwd
fuel: gas
odometer: 238000
title status: salvage
transmission: manual

As winter turns to spring, a young man’s attention turns to girls, or boys, or Fortnite, or whatever. At the same time, gearheads take their cars out of the garage and start prepping them for the track. And some of those gearheads also start prepping their excuses for not actually going to the track. You know, those one or two mods that will make all the difference and lead to either more mods or a broken car. For sale here is a ratty, track-ready Miata that tells you to stuff those excuses. I’ve had the car for almost four years now, purchased by my wife as a surprise gift when she saw the glean in my eye that usually means I need a project, and it has never failed to put a smile on my face at the track or running around town doing errands. It’s been an incredibly reliable track rat and project car, but it’s time to send it to its next owner. It is currently registered (just paid reg and put the sticker on, in fact) and smog check ready. See below for a full rundown of what’s been done to the car and what the sale will include. I’m asking $3000, but I am happy to reduce that price if you want to discuss parts I can sell separately (the extra set of wheels with Hoosiers, for example). No trades please.

Engine and drivetrain: Overall, the engine and drivetrain are in great shape. Although the car had an indicated 220,000+ miles when I got it, when I drained all the fluids to replace it with higher spec stuff, it all looked really fresh. The timing belt also looks great and it doesn’t leak any oil, even at the track. Whoever owned the car before me took car of the mechanicals (maybe not the body) and I want to say that it may even have a fresher motor because it pulls really well for a 1.6 (this is my second). I cannot confirm this however.
- Randall cowl intake (allegedly +5 hp)
- Aluminum radiator that keeps temps down on track
- The shifter ball turret was rebuilt soon after I got the car, still shifts great
- VLSD with poly differential bushings. Although the VLSD is not the ideal LSD, it’s fine for a “momentum” car (i.e. low power)
- Stock cat (so it’ll pass smog, one of my minimum requirements for the car) mated to a resonator that exits straight out. It sounds great, but I’m biased
- Engine brace that was modified from a Civic item, as I wanted to eliminate engine rock and a money shift. Works great and can be easily removed if it’s not your thing

Suspension and wheels: I added a Spec Miata suspension to my previous, street/track Miata and regretted that decision every day. For this car, I went for something a little more street-friendly, something that wouldn’t break hitting the occasional pothole or catch air on the freeway, but still plenty stiff and sporty for the track.
- Flyin Miata springs
- Flyin Miata strut tops in the rear (for more suspension travel where it counts)
- KYB AGX shocks on all four corners. Rears are three years old and the fronts are one, so pretty fresh still
- Flyin Miata sway bars front and rear
- Solid endlinks on all four corners
- Front lower and rear lower chassis braces
- APR lug studs on the front hubs with 949Racing lugnuts. The car will come with the matching set of studs and lugs for the rear, I just never got around to installing them
- A mismatched set of XXR wheels (15x8, 0 offset) with the correct hubcentric rings. The rose polished pair I bought new, the other pair I bought used, but they all balance out)
- A matched set of sticky Dunlop Direzzas all around
- See below for additional wheels and tires that will come with the car

Brakes: Brakes have been upgraded for the track and they really work well on such a light car. They never fade and I’ve never felt the need to fully upgrade to the 1.8 brakes as a result. Note that the hardware needs to be replaced at regular intervals because heat will compress the clips, etc. Currently, the pads in the front rattle a bit over rough roads because the clips needs to be replaced, but that’s something I’ll try to do before selling the car.
- Front brakes: Aggressive Hawk pads, steel braided lines, newer rotors, and recently rebuilt calipers. Note that these are still the smaller 1.6 brakes, as I didn’t want the added unspring weight of the 1.8 brakes on the front
- Rear brakes: Less aggressive Centric pads and the rotors have been upgraded to the slightly larger ones found on the 1.8 cars. I like the overall balance of this setup and the aforementioned lightness
- DIY master cylinder brace that’s made a noticeable different in brake pedal feel
- Master cylinder was replaced soon after I got the car
- Good high-temp fluid, which is vital, recently flushed and bled

Body: As mentioned previously, the body was pretty rough when I got the car, and I’m not sure anyone would say I’ve improved that except to make it stand out more. Note that the top needs to be replaced, which is detailed further down in the ad. Starting from the front of the car…
- G-style front lip, attached very securely below the painted shark teeth. Not for everyone I suppose, but I like to think it helps get people out of the way in turns 3-6 at Thunderhill
- Headlights are the low-profile Brainstorm units, although by the time I received the car the original lenses on the passenger side were broken and pitted. I replaced the entire passenger side setup with a small 7-inch lightbar, which helps greatly with light output and gives the car an interesting asymmetrical look
- Paint removed from the aluminum hood (weight savings!) and various vents cut based on research by people smarter than me as to what makes the most difference in underhood temps and lift
- Fenders have been cut to help evacuate air
- Driver side fender and passenger door have been replaced with mismatched units because the originals were dented. I rather like the look, but the next owner can choose to paint or wrap the now straight body
- Fender flares all around. I always wanted to add flares to a car, and now I have. Fronts are some flares of unknown provenance from Craigslist, while the rears are from Z-Car Garage (I think, they’re made for a 240Z in any case). The original rear metal fenders have been cut, and welded to the underlying metal, which is the right way to do this. No rubbing, even with the 0 offset wheels
- Nasty OEM rear view mirrors replaced with low profile (and retro) units from a 70s Volvo
- The rear bumper has been cut down considerably to help prevent air from being trapped and paired with a rear bash bar
- A Lotus diffuser was added and is securely fastened
- Stickers, wheee!
- Patina, whoooo!

Interior and safety
- Hard Dog single diagonal roll bar
- Hard Dog door bars that really help with torsional rigidity on this car. Probably my favorite addition
- Mismatched Corbeau seats with proper Corbeau mounts and sliders
- Five point harness for the driver
- Extended shifter
- Big ol’ Wink rear view mirror with sunshades removed
- Although the car currently has a Raid steering wheel, I will be taking this and replacing it with either the stock wheel (minus the airbag) or a Grant wheel. Either way, the new owner can have the hub to put on a Momo/Personal/Nardi wheel later
- Full interior (carpets, trim, radio and speakers) because why not?

What’s needed
- The convertible top is pretty beat up, with the glass rear window no longer able to be zipped up and the rain rail torn on the passenger side. Although I park the car in my driveway, not in the garage, I’ve successfully kept the rain out since these calamities happened last year with a $50 waterproof car cover from Amazon.
- Paint or wrap it if you care about the exterior
- Clips and other minor hardware in the front brakes (pads rattle a bit)

What else is included
- Extra set of four matching Team Dynamics wheels with Hoosier tires with some life left in them. These were my track wheels and they were transported with the tire rack detailed below
- A ratty but useful carbon Kevlar hardtop. It’s actually more of a half top, since there’s no rear glass, but the aero makes a difference in straightaway speed. Someone made a few of these years ago and I somehow ended up with one. Can be dropped on by one person and secured with 4-6 bolts
- Extra trunk lid with a DIY lexan spoiler (a la Blackbird Fabworx) and a DIY tire rack to transport the extra wheels to the track. The trunk’s support structure has been lightened with a hole saw
- DIY front splitter made of plywood and fastened to the frame with angle iron. It’s extremely secure and made a noticeable difference in entry speeds into turn 1 at Thunderhill
- An extra pair of Dunlop Direzzas with plenty of life
- Bolt-on exhaust turnout for Laguna
- Front strut brace (meh). Not on car currently
- A box of random bits that might be useful
  • do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers

post id: 6863813660


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